Uncommon Travels - Destination Report: Villa Rentals in Tuscany

Thanks to films like Under the Tuscan Sun and A Room with a View, most of us have preconceived ideas of Tuscany -- warm sunshine, old men playing bocce, open-air markets selling fresh food, art and architectural treasures, beautiful hill towns, and delectable food and wine. The good news is that this Tuscany does exist. If you want to immerse yourself in this culture and rent a house, how do you do it?

If you are looking for comfort, space, and a place to relax and entertain, or if you are traveling with a large group of friends or family, then a villa rental may be the right choice for you.

On the other hand, “If you need a high level of service, clean towels daily and perfectly matched dishware, then house renting might not be your thing,” said Suzanne Cohen, who runs her own villa rental agency. Nor will villas consistently provide temperature-controlled, bug-free environments with oversized bathrooms and room service.

If you want to rent an Italian home, you’ll need to let go of some of that predictability. “While most of our clients are very satisfied, so much so that 75% of our clients are returning clients or referrals, we did have one exceedingly dissatisfied group,” Cohen said. “During their stay, the dryer broke and it wasn’t fixed immediately. Nothing is in Italy, especially not in the countryside. We tried to resolve it by having the housekeeper wash and iron their laundry by hand, but they were still very unhappy.” This tale reminds me of A Year in Provence, a story of adapting to and ultimately embracing the country ways.

What you get in exchange is the joy of getting closer to the daily rhythm and people. Instead of ordering room service or just dining in restaurants, you buy local goods at the same shops where the townspeople shop. Despite the struggles to communicate, you not only get the job done, but meet people in the bargain. You get to observe the adults enjoying their morning cappuccinos, the teenagers congregating near the piazza with their scooters, and the families out for gelato in the evening. As you take in the sight of people sweeping their shop steps and walking their dogs, you can welcome the respite from the frenetic pace of your busy life. In short, you can observe, interact and even pretend that you belong.

Tuscany, and increasingly Umbria, are known for their climate, art, history, and cuisine. Keep in mind, however, that these regions are more spread out than they appear on the map. Therefore, it is important to choose your home base thoughtfully, because it is not always that easy to zip from one part of the region to another. If you want to spend most of your time in Florence admiring treasures, for example, select a house in northern Tuscany or Florence. Similarly, the famous wine region surrounding Siena in Chianti has much to offer food and wine lovers. Keep in mind that while you can easily travel from north to south on the A1 Autostrada, most other travel will take place on windy country roads. Mario Scalzi, president of The Parker Company, divides clients into “active day trippers,” who want to see the sights, or “relaxed reunion goers,” who are content to spend time catching up at the villa. He encourages the former types to choose a home close to major roads.

Jim Zurer, a travel consultant who specializes in Italy, recommends the area around Montalcino and Pienza. “The topography is beautiful with rolling hills and long vistas, and the villages are distinct,” he said. “While Chianti is great, there are more foreigners there especially the English and Germans. I also like Lucca, a fabulous town of 100,000 and the Cinque Terre.”

When pushed to describe her favorite part of Tuscany, Cohen admitted, “My favorite spot would not be transferable to anyone else. It is a discovery my daughter made, a corner shop with the best balsamic vinegar. If travelers are lucky, they will happen upon a field of poppies in full bloom or some discovery of their own. I advise people to stay off the highway because you can’t see anything anyway. Take the country roads, first go one way, then another and most importantly explore the road with no sign. That’s where the real finds are. One of my clients called me up raving about the beautiful torch lit castle they discovered one night during their ambles down a small road.”

Do you want to be in the country, in a town, or in a city? Most of the homes are located down country roads and you will need to drive to get to town. A country location has the advantage of nice land, peace and quiet, privacy, and possibly even beautiful views.

Do you want a pool? If you are traveling with children or in the height of summer, we strongly recommend a villa with a pool. Keep in mind that most are not heated, so ask first if that is a priority. Also many pools are set on terraced levels separated from the house, posing a problem if you want to be able to watch the kids and run to the house for beverages.

Do you want staff? The beauty of hiring a staff is that they will enhance your leisure time and give you a sense of being cared for. On the other hand, it can also be a delight to be responsible for procuring and preparing your foods. If you want English-speaking help, a good idea, specify at the time of booking.

What house features matter most? How important are showers and bed sizes? Do you want a lay-out that allows multiple families to coexist in the same house, each retaining some privacy? Do you want plenty of outdoor dining and lounging spots? Do you want a view? Do you want fine furniture and antiques or a more rustic farmhouse look?

Think through some of these issues and discuss them with your group so you can best articulate your priorities. Better yet, have everyone write down his or her top three wishes. Finally, if you have any pet peeves, share them with your brokers early on.

A good villa broker will help guide you through this process, helping you clarify your priorities. Villa rental brokers are plentiful and can save you time over aimless searching on the Internet. Of the hundreds available, I checked out 19 agencies. We highlight four that offer a great stable of homes and have been used satisfactorily by our network of travelers. We list others who sound promising but lack a recommendation from our network. Don’t hesitate to work with a few, as they have different properties, price ranges, and personalities.

If you are a person who doesn’t like surprises and is willing to invest time to understand your options, consider Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates or Home Base Abroad. Both offer a very consultative approach and are experts in matching your preferences to their properties. They will ask about your group’s goals and specific lifestyle parameters, such as sleeping and eating patterns. After a conversation or two, they will send you some recommendations, after which you can begin to narrow down the list. If you like to look through catalogs listing all your options, The Parker Company and Tuscany Now offer thick books for your perusal, as well as consultation by phone and detailed websites. One informative feature offered by The Parker Company is a description of the “pluses” and “minuses” of each particular property.

“The staff is very important to the enjoyment of your experience -- possibly more important than choosing the house. Someone English-speaking is a plus!” “Bring international cell phones with you from the states.”

“There are bugs everywhere…remember you are in the countryside!” (Editors note: each villa agent profiled talked about screens in the windows as something renters want but homes may not have. This is a detail that you might want to inquire about if you are bug phobic.)

Mara Solomon of Home Base Abroad has a thorough approach to help clients find a house that suits. She elaborated on her approach, “I spend a lot of personal time on the phone teasing out from the client what is the intent of the trip. I will talk to you for as long as you want to try to make sure I understand what will make or break the trip for you.” When she visits properties she completes a 14-page property profile form. She regaled me with the dimension differences of mattresses in Italy versus the U.S. While you may not want to know all that, you may be confident that she does know her houses in excruciating detail. “I think it’s the details that make a vacation,” Solomon said. “The things you’ll remember are not necessarily the Botticelli you saw, but the meals you ate, the view you admired, and the people you met.” One of her priorities is making sure clients have no surprises. One of her clients wanted to rent a home on the Amalfi Coast, which, as you may know, is situated on a steep, vertical cliff. Because the client had just had hip replacement surgery, Solomon was able to steer him in another direction. Mara continued, “When you choose a broker, make sure they are really listening. Do they get your idea of a vacation?”

Suzanne Cohen of Suzanne B. Cohen & Associates also urges prospective clients to choose the one that you work well with. She articulated that one of the tangible differences between her agency and others is the effort she puts into building a happy owner community. “We organize an annual owner party which is held at an owner’s home on a rotating basis. It is spectacular, because in addition to enjoying food and wine, we sing and dance. Last year, one of our owners who is a baker and an opera singer, serenaded us. One from Venice wrote and recited a poem.” Because of these outreach efforts, Cohen is increasingly connected and welcomed. From hearing her anecdotes, she has developed many friends in Italy who can help as needed. Recently, she was requested to advise a man how to renovate his villa to make it marketable and has made a friend in the process. “I care a lot about helping my clients meet the people they want to. If they want to meet the butcher, the baker, the candlestick maker or even the communist Mayor, we likely know them, or if we don’t we know who knows them.”

More relevant to us is the fact that Cohen’s team sleeps in each house to ensure the quality of the experience. She remembers one home that seemed lovely until an overnight visit revealed beeping trucks that passed by all night, for example.

Cohen cited another example, “If it is market day on arrival and departure days and you can’t park nearby, you will be very unhappy as you struggle to get your luggage to the house.” She also wants to be able to describe the charming features of a villa. She’ll tell you, “You won’t believe the view when you open the shutters in the morning.”

Mario Scalzi of The Parker Company observes that client’s trip goals often fall into one of two categories. If they are going on a trip with the purpose of spending time with family, a main priority will be the house itself and its features. If, on the other hand, the villa will serve as a home base for exploring, Scalzi will recommend a location that is near a convergence of major roads. He tells these clients, “Don’t focus on the frescoes, pick the house for its position.” Once a client picks several houses, he tries to understand why they were selected so he can learn more about what they are looking for. If there is a red flag he will expose it. “If the house in question has 16 worn stone steps and no handrail, I’ll tell them about it -- especially is they are taking Grandma,” Scalzi said.

Another tip from Mario, “If you are taking a multi-week trip, you should save the best for last. Sometimes I have to help clients reverse their itinerary to accomplish this.”

Be sure to ask about plumbing and kitchens. Americans have very different standards for kitchens and baths than Italians do. “I have seen some beautiful homes owned by aristocratic families that I would not rent because the kitchen lacks the modern conveniences we take for granted. A wealthy Italian would say, “Who cares? You won’t spend any time in it,” but when my clients are paying many thousand to rent a home, they want an up-to-date kitchen whether they will be cooking or not! Part of the value I bring is that I am an American, and I go into the homes with an American’s mindset,” described Mara.

House staff is very important. Not only are language skills and temperament important, but you will also want to understand the hours and duties of the staff. “If a client is an accomplished cook and wants to be in the kitchen and follow the cook to the market, I make sure that that is an option,” Ms. Solomon elaborated.

Evaluate your priorities. Do you care about the house most? Do you care more about what it is near? Do you care most about available dates? Do you care most about staff? A good broker will help you identify properties closest to your criteria and assess their strengths and weaknesses.

Book six to 10 months in advance to get your choice of properties. For the past few years, rental demand slowed down. The market is picking up again, however, so you need to book far in advance to get the best choice of villas.

If you are lucky enough to know a home and an owner, by all means book it that way. The broker fee is 20- 40% of your rental rate so you could have some extra Euros to play with. Good sources of direct vacation homes are alumni magazines.

Poggio di Sopra in Castelnuovo Dell’Abate.
On a hill, overlooking and the rolling countryside beyond, are two recently remodeled apartments. The units share a swimming pool, grounds, an office and a supplemental outdoor kitchen. There is a private restaurant also on the grounds which is used occasionally for entertaining by the owners and by renters who request restaurant service in advance. To our delight, while touring their rental properties, they served us a delectable Tuscan buffet and wine lunch. The enterprising brothers who own the winery, Cesare and Carlo Vittori, are impressive. A small town is 1 kilometer down the road, and Montalcino is 7 kilometers away. They produce Brunellos and other wines. Their artistic wine labels created by their partner, Sandra Chia, stand out. They are industrious - they also rent and sail a sloop. Did I mention that Cesare’s full-time job is as a neuro-anesthesiologist in Siena?

The Poggia di Sobra apartments sleep 4 or 6 people and cost 2,000 to 3,000 Euros per week; UT subscribers may get a 5% discount if interested.

Relais La Vetrichina in San Casciano de Bagni.
Just outside the town, is a farmhouse and resort run by a lovely couple, Marina and Milvio Riccardi, who retired from Rome and settled in San Casciano. They rent the entire house comprised of 6 bedrooms or rent the home as three separate 2 bedroom apartments. The grounds include a pool, a playground, a pond and farm animals. The Riccardi’s also run a shop in town and are fluent in English. Rates 6,500 Euros for the entire home per week or 180-360 Euros per night per apartment including breakfast and daily maid service.) www.vetrichina.it

Cappanelle Winery Estate in Gaiole in Chianti
Affiliated with the exquisite Villa San Michele in Florence is a recently renovated four- bedroom farmhouse. There is a butler on duty from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. to serve refreshing snacks and drinks poolside, as well as to prepare breakfast. The location is fantastic for venturing into Florence, Siena and exploring the Tuscan countryside. This is a good option for travelers who want the experience of staying in a villa without the time required to search for one.

La Foce offers fifteen accommodations widely dispersed on the 2,200-acre estate. In central Tuscany between Rome (two hours by car) and Florence (90 minutes), and 20 minutes from the Chiusi-Chianciano Terme exit of the A1 highway. The mother of the current owners, Iris Origo published her diaries telling of their experiences in World War II, called War in Val D'Orcia: An Italian War Diary.

One of the most attractive homes, Montauto, sleeps 10 and costs $6,239 a week in high season including maid service daily.

They also participate in a Chamber Music Festival annually in some of the most delightful and little known venues of Southern Tuscany and Umbria. July 24th – Aug. 1st, 2004. www.lafoce.com

Butterfield & Robinson offers “Homebase” trips where you join other families for an active week of organized activities using a villa as home base for meals and sleeping. The typical schedule includes organized family bike rides in the morning, and separate kid and adult activities in the afternoon. Similarly, some dinners are for families dining together and some separate the age groups, allowing adults to linger over their food and wine. The villa holds a maximum of 35 to 40 guests and offers multiple configurations of small apartments.

A family who went last year raves, “It was the best trip I’ve ever taken. For us, it was a great blend of family time, couple time and athletic activity. We had a bike trip in the morning with the kids, pulling them using tag-a-long bikes. In the afternoon, the kids would be whisked off to a great activity including lake swimming, working with terra cotta, gelato tasting or learning about the Palio festival in Siena. The adults would take a longer bike trip after lunch or opt out at any point. Our kids loved it because they instantly made friends with the other children and could safely move from apartment to apartment, pool and playground. We loved it because we could enjoy the activity, fine food, and have adult time part of each day. We are doing another B&R trip next year, this time to Ireland.”

Dates: June 6th, June 27th, Sept. 19th 2004 for 6 day/ 5 nights 1 large family of ten booked for the June 17th trip but no one yet for the other two trips (as of mid January, 2004 – call for an update). Cost: $4,675 per adult and $1,995- $4,295 per child

The adult only version, called “Sojourn”, takes place at a Relais & Chateaux property on the outskirts of Siena.

“I loved eating ice cream every night and going to the little playground after.”

“I tried to rate the gnocchi, which was impossible because it was all so good!”

“I like going to Italy, it’s fun! Did you try Nutella? I love it! If you want to go to Italy, rent a house in the mountains. You can see everything!

The House
This striking home, originally a village school, is located in the charming medieval hill town of San Casciano dei Bagni. The home was thoroughly redesigned by its owner, a British architect and designer, and is ideal for a large group. The accommodations comprise six bedrooms, each with a modern private bath. Importantly, a shaded dining and lounge space overlooks a beautiful, heated pool. It also has a large living and dining room, and a well equipped, modern kitchen.

Pros:

Very comfortable, modern and attractive home
Good for multiple families or couples because each bedroom has its own bath
Attractive and flexible outdoor living space, next to the home
Modern kitchen and baths
Beautiful views from the kitchen
Within one block of a small town, complete with shops, restaurants and a small playground
Beautiful heated pool (we heated it in June)

Cons:

Pool is next to house so don’t bring children who aren’t water safe
Hear background street noise from trucks coming up the hill below the house
Far from the A1 and major sights in Tuscany including Chianti and Florence
Couldn’t get bedroom music player or television to play videos
Stark Asian décor won’t appeal to some
Dining chairs are not very comfortable

The House Staff
We were supported by Roberto who spoke a little English and was very kind, warm, and reliable. He’d bring us provisions and keep the house and pool clean. Giuliana would cook most afternoons. The highlight of our stay was arriving to a kitchen stocked with delicious tomato sauce, soup and a cake! Giuliana made fresh pasta several times, which was heavenly. She even let the kids “help” her. Unfortunately by the end of the two weeks, I tired of the meals. The only other glitch was that she would arrive in the morning or afternoon and cook, leaving prepared meals for us to reheat, and serve. Ideally, I would have liked more variety, dining out sometimes and having Giuliani set-up and clean-up occasionally.

Pros:

Being stocked with food six days per week
Enjoyed procuring selected items
Very nice, Italian staff who adore children

Cons:

Tired of eating at home for two weeks
Would have preferred to have someone clean up after dinner

The Town
If you’re looking for a quaint, authentic Italian town, peopled by local inhabitants – only about 1,000 in all, rather than tourists, San Casciano dei Bagni is a great choice. We enjoyed the daily rhythms and comings and goings of the people, including the caribineri, as they shopped and interacted. In the evening the older people brought out folding chairs onto the church steps or sat on the benches overlooking the valley below. The bar was the gathering spot for young and old, and it is here where we would indulge in cappuccino and gelato. The family who owned the bar, the fine restaurant, and the inn happened to launch a great pizza restaurant during our stay, so we attended the opening night festivities – along with everyone else in town, including plenty of kids and dogs. Everyone was very nice and we managed to communicate despite our lack of a common language. Our biggest language error was when we attended what we expected to be a musical concert that was set-up one evening in the piazza. It turned out to be a reading of several celebrated authors. We understood nothing, yet couldn’t find the courage to be rude and leave during the performance.

In the shops, our interactions were pleasant but limited to greetings and transactions because of our lack of a common language. One of the friendliest people we met, Milvio Riccardi, the owner of a store and an inn, informed us about the town. Luckily for us, he speaks English fluently.

The Nearby Spa
There still is a functioning thermal bath and spa near San Casciano dei Bagni (hence it’s name), which features two parts: A club – with mineral baths and pool, changing rooms, and a snack bar is open to the public if you pay a day pass; and a swank hotel and restaurant with access to a separate spa and pool. The Fonteverde spa is located a mile down the road from the villa.

Outings
Our day trips included Chiusi, where we visited the excellent Etruscan museum and tombs; Montalcino, to visit the wineries; and Cetona, where we enjoyed the bustle of a larger town. All three are located only about 30 miles away and are easily accessible. There is no easy access to the A1 highway, however, which means that our daytrip to Florence was no picnic. I would not recommend it if you don’t want to become a hood ornament on some speeding, lane changing truck or sedan. Montepulciano, Todi, Orvieto, Pienza and a variety of smaller hill towns are also relatively nearby. We rented bikes and the adults biked the hilly country roads to other villages. The kids biked in the flat village parking lot.

To learn more about La Scuola… If interested in renting, Uncommon Travels subscribers can rent directly from the owner for 8,000 Euros per week, please contact us.